Buying Batteries From Canadian Tire - Warranty Issues, Etc.

Unregistered said:

... the amount of times I had poor customer service from differant stores from across the GTA to duram region.

the most recent is at the oshawa store @taunton and wilson. I had the warranty paper but not the orignal reciept (mind you the reciept is printed on the warrenty paper and out of the same car for the same car)

was told as policy u need it or I'll have to buy a new one, so I bought a new, only to find the reciept a few days later taking it to them asking for a store credit(not a refund) the store refused. Called Customer Rel. and they resloved the issue for the store credit done. The new battery from the time I put it in the car it out putting 11.5 to 10.5 volts to crank the car. That right there is a probelm, the battery should be out putting 12 volts when cranking. I took it back and advised the store in oshawa whats going on. They told me its could be my altonator or a short in the wires. I said ok as it is an old car (1986 cutlass 3.8l V6) I left the battery to be charged and went home to see if there was a short. Got the battery back @ 13 volts which it should be at. What did to ensure my car is ok, tested my altonator sent back a recharge up to 15.5 volts didnt go below 13 volts while running, was pulling about 40-30amps so altonator is fine so far.

then check my wires mind u I re did my gounds in my car all of them. I disconntected the pos terminal of the battery put my multimetre in there and had the car door and hood open with the fuse for the light in saw that it was drawing a 11.2 amps from the battery then removed the fuse went all the way down to 0 amps so wire shorts or wire problems. I advised the service manger Burno what i did and he starting telling me about the batttery acid and how bunch of things that dont matter. I asked if the battery is def. then why is it not handling the load and only sending 11.5-10.5 volts? he didnt answer the question he said as usually well my test says needs a recharge and the manufactor goes by the same tester and they will lose on the cost.

So i asked him the same question and added doesnt that mean that the battery is def and should be replaced as ur test is not testing the load? he didnt answer the question n only offered to recharge it or I can bring my car in and they can do the testing and get a read out. So spend more money instead of looking at the mani issue that battery as everything was crossed out and keeps coming to the battery.

Manager just repeated himself. I said ok take it charge it and im going to get my money back, he said not refunds, i said you will do it but ill get ur boos to do it. Called custom rel advised that i bought a battery from walmart and car working fine and they said that will refund my money with the reciept from walmart.

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Owner 1 said:

the information is readily available.

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